Historical fashion, like history, is important because it shows us how women's lives have changed over time, via the clothing they wore, in relation to societal views, norms, mores and class.
Fashion, then, as now, says a lot about who we are. Clothing in the 19th Century was not mass produced. Garments were tailored for an individual’s size and preference. There were few synthetic fabrics and certainly no knock-offs. No Wal-Mart. No having a Couch bag instead of a Coach bag.
What you wore told folks who you were. Clothing was fashionably tailored by accomplished seamstresses, with fabric imported from far away exotic lands, and it reflected social rank. Or...it was hand sewn from flour sacks or
simple calico purchased at the mercantile and was utilitarian. If you had money (never talked about among
women—rather flaunted), the quality and yardage of fabric and trim choices,
foretold your place in society. Women who did not spend their lives in toil or
servitude wore ensembles in which restricted movement was not an issue. You did not require a great range of motion to drink mint juleps on the porch (kidding). However, if you were working class or a servant, the
clothing you wore would need to allow you the freedom of movement to perform
your duties. A servant might even roll
up her sleeves in a hot kitchen or in the comings and goings of a busy day—a lady
would never roll up anything, least of all a sleeve. She might pull up a sleeve a little on the sly to reveal her hella diamond bracelet...or even ride an ostrich...but never roll up a sleeve!
Oddly, fashion sometimes regressed in the liberation of
women. Yes, as strange as this sounds, it is
true. It was not a faux pas for 18th
Century women to show a little ankle.
However, in the 19th Century, it was considered scandalous to
do so. Women in the 19th
Century could show cleavage, but dare not let an ankle peek out. In fact, there were strategically placed mirrors
around the home (particularly in the parlor) for ladies to ensure they were not scandalized in such fashion--pardon the pun :).
Actually, Petticoat Mirrors have been debunked by some
historians as Pier Tables in disguise.
However, in the American South, I daresay there were strategically
placed floor mirrors that were not Pier Tables trendily positioned between
windows, as was the norm. We’ll just
have to agree to disagree on that one. I realize Petticoats were remiss to slip and
slips were sewn in mightily, however, there were just certain things a lady
wouldn't do…and showing an ankle or petticoat was one of them. Great pains were taken to avoid this. How strange to think of this when now-a-days
you are almost guaranteed not only to see a woman’s ankle (knee, thigh...), there is a high
probability it will be tattooed! Oh, my how things have changed.
As we begin this blogging journey together, it is in pursuit of understanding, not debunking, that I hope to share and explore with you. I question
that term "debunking" when applied to history without the benefit of primary source
documentation or citations. Claiming anything (including "because the museum curator said so," is just
not how the business of history is done.
Like present day fashion, historical fashion was
personal. It reminds us from where we came…and
what the journey was like along the way for centuries of women before us.
I love to sew historical garments for the same reason I
collect and study antiques--it puts me in touch with history. How did people do things then…and why. I may be utilizing contemporary materials and
sewing in a new millennium, but fashioning an item in a style (although not
often with purist materials) that someone actually would have worn makes the
time period and people that lived then more real.
Feel free to email me: sewintohistory@gmail.com or post in the comments
section. Please visit me on Facebook and give a like: facebook.com/sewintohistory. Thank you for spending a little time here today!!
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